Bodegas Los Frailes

Fortunately this visit to the Valencia region I was a little more organised and prearranged a visit to  Bodegas los Frailes who have 130 ha of organic vines.  The vineyard is in the process of converting to Biodynamic viticulture because of the belief that it yields better soil health, better fruit and better wine.

even mimba the dog was happy

They do not use any fruit outside of their own and produce 300 000 bottles.  The valley is relatively moist and green due to the breeze from the sea which enables a fresher style of wine.  The valley is lush in comparison to the arid landscape in Yecla and Jumilla.

The current family have run the property since 1771 and prior to that it was fully functioning monastery for a hell of a long time who engaged in a little viticulture to justify 12 amphora and channeling.  As these were found behind a sealed wall their age hasn't been verified.  Though with the lack of pipe work and use of channels to distribute wines to amphora it could be a roman vintage.

That was then and this is now... where wines are either fermented in barrel or the less romantic but very effective stainless steel tanks. 

So a little white to refresh the palate.   The 333,  which is a blend of Muscat(25%), Verdil (25%) and Sauvignon Blanc (50%).   Veridl in case you are wondering is an indigenous grape of spain and is dwindling in production and mainly used in blends such as this.  Just as well too, it keeps the acidity levels up and makes this a fresh blend of floral and green stone fruit.  A great summer drinking white for those who want a dry fresh wine.  Would be about £10.   Foodwise, it goes really well with salt cod croquettes, or most pan fried white fish especially if they are served with capers.  The fruit flavours and acidity of the wine balance out the salt and any butter.  

As it's was Rose weather, it would have been a little rude to ignore the darker coloured monastrell rose which tasted of all peaches and cream.  Any sweetness was counteracted by some a acidity and a hint of white pepper.  This was an unexpected star.

The unoaked effe Monastrell delivers pure red fruit flavour with any oak or jam.  There is a little tannin  and green leaf but at £10 this is a bargain and nice change from a big Monastrell that generally comes from Yecla, Valencia or Jumilla.  

This is definitely a wine to have with some food as I tried it with a little chorizo and it just sang.

It's bigger brother the Bilogica is a blend of syrah and monastrell is still fresh but delivers some more weight due to the barrell aging in Hungarian oak.  

The Trilogica is made up of Monastrell, Tempranillo and garnacha is a little more meaty with some darker fruits coming to the fore. That would be the garnacha and tempranillo then.  Some BBQ lamb chops wouldn't go a miss with this baby.

oh Moma  is a blend of Monastrell and an introduction to a variety I have not had before, Marselan that is a cross between Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon.   The blackcurrant and red fruits appear with the same acidic streak seen previously.  The big difference is the caramel notes and pepper spice that also appear.

1771 uses the prime crop of monastrell.  It is in fact one of the few I have had that gets close to Hewitson's Old Garden Mouvedre.  Possibly due to the 80 year old vines that exhibit phenomenal character and depth.  Light in colour, fresh fruits of dark damson,  caramelised onion, salted caramels..... and the list goes on and on.  This hasn't even been bottled yet, but we look forward to it when it does hit the street.

and for dessert, after 3, whiich is also a monastrell with a forest of darker red fruit, mint leaf and caramel.  Really intoxicating and perfect for chocalate driven deserts.

The most surprising thing abut all of these wines is the freshness.  They still have acidity which for wines in the area is quite rare.  The quality of fruit shines through in each wine, even the very cheapest still demonstrates this.

Thanks to Maria and her fine hospitality at Bodegas los Frailes.  Currently only the F Monastrell is available in the Uk but D Vine Cellars are working to change that.

What is it about the sheep.....

We don’t sell much of this wine, barely any in fact. It’s not inexpensive, Alsatian, comes in one of their funny elongated bottles that people associate with crap Riesling, is made from a high yielding poor quality grape that nobody’s heard of, and it’s got a pretty naff label with a sheep on it.*

Andre Ostertag is our kind of winemaker. His domain has been biodynamic since 1998, and he consistently turns out some of the purest, most focused expressions of Alsatian varieties going. Sylvaner is Alsace’s also-ran. Originating in Germany, it has acid but not much else which means it usually finds its way into blends and is rarely varietally bottled.

This is a bit of a game-changer, especially in the 2010 vintage. There’s huge concentration of spiced pears and quinces on the nose, and a honeyed generosity in the mouth followed by zippy acidity on the tail.

It is, quietly, one of the best balanced and most lovely whites on our shelves.....

*On a separate note- why is it that all of the big four Sunday roast animals (cow, chicken, pig, sheep) have negative connotations when applied to humans? It’s anthropomorphism gone mad. 

Oliver North

You have probably noticed it's not me....... so In an effort to update the blog more frequently, I have asked Oliver North who is part of the founding team at D Vine Cellars to contribute.  I hope you enjoy his work.  Greg

getting back to natural with Chateau Lassolle

While staying in the Dordogne, we could not decline the invitation of a couple of wine producers that I have admired for a while.

First stop was the enlightening Chateau Lassolle that proves that the best things often come in small packages...... and with a production of only a few thousand bottles this is definitely the case.

Oh and if you haven't worked it out yet, Stephanie is passionately natural and bio! 

Her Chateau modestly overlooks the Marmandais and supports some gnarly vines that make the most characterful wines let alone the label.

All of Stephanie's wines are harvested by hand and made by herself and her bottling machine/assistant (Jean Christophe).  Prior to tasting some of these sensational wines we tasted the latest wines for her remarkable Cabernet Franc and the Petit Lassole from the barrel or tanks to understand the evolution of wine.

In my experience, most tastings you have some dry bread but Stephanie pulled out the saussice, black pudding and the most delicate goats cheese............. it just worked.

The wines were full throttle..... the rose had more "farmyard" than most pinot, the Rouge Qui Tache was a rare find.  From my research, the Abouriou grape is similar to gamay but with a little more tannin and some stronger fruit.  It works sensationally well.

The 2008 Chateau Lassolle and Petit Lassole are fascinating blends that keep evolving in the glass to create a true integration of the darker fruits, leather and herbacious fragrance.

The Petit Lasolle, a blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Abouriou, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Servadou needs space to breathe and evolve.... and when it does, it offers a wonderful myriad of flavours.

The Cotes du Marmandais is a little more grown up and serious.  The blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec doesn't mess around and would balance a grilled steak or lamb perfectly. Give it time to breathe and the rewards will come.

The rose' was generous with the vineyard flavours and aromas and really needed the goat's cheese and saussice to come alive. I don't imagine this is everyone's bag but I really liked it.  Think wild strawberry and hay!  

And finally.....the SSS (sun, sex and sea)  was unfortunately as short as most holiday romances.  Stephanie agreed and honestly felt this wine was not where she wanted it to be.
In her words... too short.

Yesterday, I met a brilliant winemaker, a new friend and someone who I believe in and want to see again on the magic carpet ride of life.  

Drinking wine on twitter.....

Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon 2000

Grape:    90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc
Where:   Eden Valley, Australia
Booze:   13.5%
Foods:   Grilled Lamb or beef
Story:   Biodynamic


I never set out to talk or tweet about a wine as I am drinking it....  it is just too much like gloating which is a little un-Australian (or so my British mates would say)

The one thing I miss from Australia are individual wines. So, my friends occasionally take this on board and bring a good bottle of Aussie red over.  Last night it wasn't just a good bottle, but a great bottle....thank you Kingue.




The aroma of eucalyptus, blackberry, currants and cigar box remind me of home straight away.  The flavours are parallel with this but offer the added layer of caramelised strawberry along with a little black pepper.  The dry finish would accompany any red meat but steak,lamb or even a roast fillet of beef would all be excellent companions.


So as we progressed through the bottle I tweeted how much I was enjoying the wine, only to have their wine maker tweet back... 


"henschkewines
Jul 01, 11:26pm via Web

@gregloveswine Glad you enjoyed! That is the ideal age for that one I think. Josh- Assistant Winemaker"

So great to see twitter at work.  Get involved with both twitter and Cyril Henschke Cabernet..... both terrific at what they do.

Whilst this particular vintage was from the personal cellar other Henschke wines are available from D Vine Wine.

The excitement of new..... part 2

Sottobosco Vendemmia 2010, Ca' de Noci (Lambrusco)

Grape:    Montericco Grasparossa, Sgavetta and Malbo Gentile
Where:    Emilia Romagna, Italy
Booze:    12%
Foods:    Charcuterie, meat based aperitif
Story:    Organic and minimal intervention, No sulphur.



The last time I had a Lambrusco was more than 2 decades ago at Uni.  That pretty much sums up the standard of the wine. Given that there is so much water under the bridge this definitely classifies as new.


Red Sparking ..... really.  Unlike the sparkling shiraz efforts of my countrymen, this is dry and with a mineral earthiness.  The yeastiness comes through and makes this a great companion for a meat aperitif


“Sottobosco,” a unique lambrusco naturally re-fermented on the lees in the bottle is blend of Montericco Grasparossa, Sgavetta and Malbo Gentile. 1 Frances, Soulvine.it"


Hopefully we will be able to unleash this shortly.   But until then.... occasionally challenge your perception and you will be rewarded.

The excitement of new.....

Aresco Vendemmia 2008, Ca' de Noci

Grape:    Muscat, Malvasia, aromatic Spergola
Where:    Emilia Romagna, Italy
Booze:    14.5%
Foods:    Caramel Ice cream, or even a really rich Creme Brulee
Story:    Organic and minimal intervention, No sulphur.

It's good to be coaxed out of your comfort zone to realise there really are some phenomenal wines in the world that may not have landed in your local stores because the producer doesn't have massive budgets.  Ca' de Noci, fall into this camp. 


One of their standout wines is the Aresco.  It was actually so good we finished the bottle prior to the photo but it is deep caramelised peach colour, that delivers caramel flavours so big you might as well be eating a sticky toffee pudding with salted caramel.... it's sensational.  The flavours are eternal and it just keeps delivering. 


And the reason for this kaleidoscope of flavour is the fact that the “Aresco” a skin macerated sweet wine composed of White Moscato, Malvasia and Spergola grapes are pressed after drying for three months in the hills of Reggio Emilia, and two years of fermentation in oak barrels." 1 Frances of SoulVine.it


This is a truly special bottle of wine and I look forward to more of the new.  


Hopefully to be stocked by D Vine Wine very shortly.

Wine for Wimbledon.....

Agnes & Rene Mosse, Moussamousettes NV

Grape:    Gamay, Grolleau Gris

Where:    Loire, France

Booze:    12%

Foods:    strawberries and cream

Story:    Biodynamic and minimal intervention


Agnes and Rene Mosse have been working 13ha of vines in Anjou under biodynamic principles since 1999.


This is a ‘petillant naturel’ - lightly sparkling, unfined and unfiltered – nothing added nothing taken away. A pale pink in the glass, with fine light bubbles, there’s sweet strawberry and raspberry notes from the Gamay, and a rhubarb twist from the Grolleau. A lick of acidity is cleans the finish, and makes this one for drinking, not sipping.


Perfect summer sparkling, crack out the strawberries and cream as you watch Wimbledon.

Available from D Vine Wine for a steal at £12.50

Oli.

----

As we recognise we are not posting as much as we should, Oliver (one of the team at D Vine) has written up a few wines which really need to see the light of day.